Supercharged Camira..

Craig and Adam\’s attempt at adding an SC12 to a JE Camira wagon

Project Wrap Up

Posted by superchargedcamira on December 17, 2008

Well now that the project has pretty much completely wrapped up, i thought i would post some information on what it actually cost us to do this project. The table below shows the overall costs by category. The misc costs ended up being the highest, and these were largely vehicle registration and insurance costs 😦

Part / Description Cost Description
Car Cost 900.00 Cost of purchasing the car
Tuning Costs 182.08 Cost of tuning the car
Supercharging Costs 1,340.07 Cost to supercharge the car
Misc Costs 1,752.74 Misc costs associated with the project
Repair Cost 619.57 Cost to repair existing problems with the car
Total Project Cost 4,794.46    

The repair costs were pretty much an added cost that was incurred due to the history of the vehicle we purchased. It appeared to have had a good thrashing, hence all the broken engine mounts. It had also been sitting a while, had incorrect timing and various other problems. The main reason we still bought this car in the first place was that the engine itself felt quite strong, and the engine was going to be one of the key parts of the project.

Below is a more detailed breakdown of the costs involved.

Part / Description Cost Description
Car Cost 900.00
Camira 900.00 The initial cost of purchasing the car
Tuning Costs 182.08
Home Dyno 54.44 The dyno software purchased to get horsepower and torque readings
Inductive Pickup 39.95 Inductive pickup used to record spark lead pulses
Voice Recorder 87.69 Tool used to record the signal from the inductive pickup
Supercharging Costs 1,340.07
Ziff Socket 12.00 Soldered to the Delco ECM to allow easy swapping of ROMs
2 Bar Map Sensor 108.25 MAP sensor to allow up to 2 bar manifold pressure
Supercharger 250.00 SC12 supercharger from a toyota 4agze engine
Intercooler 119.00 china cheapie intercooler from internet
JB Radiator 55.00 JB camira radiator to replace JE (for size reasons)
1MZ Crank Pulley 110.00 Crank pulley from a 2001 toyota camry
Machined sleave for crank pulley 95.00 The machined sleave that was custom made to fit the new crank pulley to the camiras existing pulley mounts
4 M8 (60mm) cap screws 3.80 cap screws to attach pulley and sleave
3pk alternator belt 20.70 3pk ribbed belt for alternator to crank pulley
5pk sc belt 26.31 5pk ribber belt for supercharger to crank pulley
radiator hose, clips, coolant 38.40 new hose, clips and coolant for attaching JB radiator
one way/pcv valves, clips and adapter 50.36 one way valves to prevent boost going where its not wanted
air filter 56.50 new air filter to fit to SC intake
50mm hose, 35mm hose, clips 55.90 hoses and clips for SC -> intercooler and SC -> bypass valve
injectors 78.00 injectors (second hand)
injector cleaning 120.00 cleaning of the second hand injectors
intercooler pipes 66.00 chrome intercooler pipe (expander pipe before throttle body)
vac hose, clamps, copper T piece, bolts 29.65 bypass valve vaccum hookup
catch can filter, bits, hoses 45.20 catch can bits and pieces
Misc Costs 1,752.74
Car Stands 35.00 hard stands to sit the car on when the wheels were off
Vehicle License Transfer 32.95 stamp duty on original purchase
3rd party insurance 439.34 3 years of 3rd party insurance
Flexible tubing 20.00 temporary cold air induction we were trying out early on
camira dash with tacho 84.50 we wanted a dash with a tacho
Fuel 140.00 cars don’t run on just love
Rego 6 months 1,000.95 excessive govt costs for a car that was barely on the road
Repair Cost 619.57
Camira Service Manual 35.95 worth the money, very handy reference
Engine Mount FR 136.56 3 engine mounts
Heat Wrap 55.00 heat wrap for the extractors
Misc bits and pieces 65.51 cv clips, fuel vac and brake hoses, fuel filter, fan belt, coolant
Ignition Leads 26.77 ignition leads as the old ones were cracked
Spark Plugs 10.39 why not didn’t cost too much
Oil + Filter 38.98 to make sure it had new oil and filter
head gaskets, head bolts 180.91 gaskets, head bolts, loctite, o rings, rocker grease for head rebuild
clutch cable 39.50 old one was not very nice, bit sticky
speedo cable 30.00 old one snapped

So there you have it, thats what it takes to do your own supercharging of a camira. Keep in mind, there were a few things that we got for no cost, such as the main 50mm intercooler piping, the modifications to the SC inlets, the brackets etc. This was either because we did it ourselves (eg designed and built the brackets from stuff we had laying around), or had mates who owed us favours (in the case of the intercooler piping and SC intake mods).

Probably the biggest expense that we didnt really consider at the start of the project was how much it costs to keep a motor vehicle registered and insured (even though it was only 3rd party insurance). Unfortunately these things cost you periodically whether or not you have even used the car.

Cheers and have a great xmas and new years to everyone from Craig and Adam.

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Sold!

Posted by superchargedcamira on December 17, 2008

The car has now sold. Good luck to the new owner and thanks again to everyone that helped us along the way.

Cheers, Adam and Craig.

Posted in Camira | 2 Comments »

Long awaited video evidence..

Posted by superchargedcamira on November 23, 2008

Hi all, we promised ages ago to post some videos of the supercharged camira but due to issues with my camera and general issues of laziness 😉 its taken me until now to actually make some. Nothing too special however, just a look at the engine running with the SC and a run down the road flat out through first and second gear. Unfortunately the sound is a little poor so it doesnt quite convey the great noise we get from this thing. Enjoy!

Oh yes and dont forget, if anyone is interested, the car is up for sale.

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Its for sale!

Posted by superchargedcamira on November 3, 2008

You read correctly! Our project is now complete (well to our level of completeness! haha) We have decided to sell the project as we have reached our main goal. We arent interested in making it go faster or modify it further performance wise, perhaps thats its life for the next owner..

Here are a few summarized details:

White JE Camira wagon 1987, 2.0 litre, 5sp man

Engine rebuilt by previous owner

New engine mounts all round

New head gasket

New clutch cable

New speedo cable

SLE Tacho dash

Supercharger (SC12) from a mid 80’s Toyota MR2 AW11

Intercooled

Custom ECU tuned (running stock Delco computer)

Custom Crank Pulley (sized to run 7psi)

2 Bar map sensor

Extractors

Larger TP Magna injectors 

Power steering and air conditioning removed (that’s where the s/c lives now) 

Around 30-40% increase in power over stock 85kw output. The supercharger is operated via a manual button on the dash. The car can be driven fine with the supercharger turned off but when you need to power – just press the button! Starting price is $2500 but is negotiable. Some spares included. Registered till January 09. Very fun to drive! The car is located in Perth, northern suburbs..

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Preliminary Home Dyno Testing

Posted by superchargedcamira on September 7, 2008

Hi all,

Spent some time playing around with the inductive pickup the other day, trying to figure out how to get a cleaner signal. After numerous tests in different configurations we came up with a setup that appeared to work quite well. Basically what we wanted was a wave form with the nicest signal per pulse, and the least amount of noise or interference the rest of the time. Suprisingly the best results came from actually turning the inductive pickup the other way around. They come with an arrow on them which is supposed to point to the distributor (from memory anyway), but we found that turning it around so the arrow pointed to the spark plug gave a far cleaner signal. We also found that keeping the pickup in the middle of the lead so it was as far away from the spark plug and distributor as possible also resulted in less noise. Another modification to the pickup was to earth it to the car instead of the recording device. We still kept the resistor and capacitor in circuit as this helped smooth the signal.

So in summary, the best results from the inductive pickup required the following
1. Arrow on pickup to point towards spark plug rather than distributor
2. Pickup to be located in the middle of the spark lead, longer leads are better to use.
3. Earth the pickup to the battery terminal earth or chassis earth rather than the recording device.
4. A recording device that can actually record at a decent sample rate! (the higher the better)

Point 4 refers to a discovery we made during the preliminary testing, which you may notice in the dyno graphs provided at the end of this post. What we didnt realise was that the voice recorder we bought ages ago to record these runs does not actually sample at a high enough bitrate to give an accurate reading in the homedyno software. To our suprise the record was only rated for 19200bps, which translates to 2.4khz. The minimum we should really be working with is 11khz. A laptop can record at up to 48khz. This lack of resolution becomes noticable in the higher rev ranges when the graph becomes more ‘jumpy’ than it should. This is purely down to the lack of resolution, which can result in the hp and torque figures not being as accurate as they should be. So for now we will have to go back to a laptop for our next recordings, however i have found that there are some portable voice recorders that can record at 128kpbs which is at the 16khz mark, so should be suitable for this purpose.

We ran a preliminary dyno test on the camira with the supercharger on and off which presented us with some interesting results.

Original Test (Jun 2006): 1 bar (factory akfl rom) – 87hp @ 4900 rpm, 93 lb/ft @ 4900 rpm
New Test 1: 2 bar rom, supercharger off – 65hp @ 5200 rpm, 84 lb/ft @ 3700 rpm
New Test 2: 2 bar rom, supercharger on – 112hp @ 6000 rpm, 120 lb/ft @ 3900 rpm

The first thing we noticed was that the 2 bar rom tuning with the supercharger off was actually a fair way down on power compared to our original dyno runs we did in 2006 at the start of this project. As you can see, the original akfl rom was producing 87hp and 93 lb/ft, whereas the 2bar rom is only producing 65hp and 84 lb/ft. This indicates that our tuning for 2 bar is nowhere near as good as it should be. While it does drive ok, it does feel quite unresponsive when you put your foot down. In contrast, with the supercharger on its producing around the 112hp mark, a whopping 72% hp increase between SC on and off. That power difference is certainly noticable, the car really comes alive when you turn the SC on. However when you compare the SC power with the original power from the akfl rom, its a 28% power increase.

So what does that tell us.. well basically it appears that we need to look at tuning the lower map areas better for when the supercharger is off, as we should be able to get that same 87hp with the SC off.  We also need to perform some more tuning to see if we can eek some more power out of the supercharged mapping.

Another thing to remember though, was that the original factory akfl rom was always a better (read more powerful, better tuned) rom that the amxy rom we used as the base for the 2 bar conversion. While we would very much have liked to start from the akfl base, we didnt have the required ECU map to be able to modify the components we required.

Whether or not we can get more power out of the tuning, its still brings a huge grin to our faces everytime we put our foot down and listen to that supercharger scream. Hopefully we can get some video up soon to demonstrate.

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Molested mounts..

Posted by superchargedcamira on August 31, 2008

When we first got the old girl we replaced the front two engine mounts. Many people had told us of the regular problems these cars suffer with engine mounts but when we examined ours, they were completely snapped. To me it didnt look like normal wear and tear, it looked as though the previous owner had been doing jumps in the bloody thing or something. This weekend was no exception with the rear drivers mount being replaced with a mint second hand one. Much to our surprise (not) this mount had been clean snapped as well and was rubbing metal on metal.

The mount itself took around 45 mins to remove however getting the new mount in place of the old one took around another 3 hours. Being the bush mechanics we are (and not having the right tools), we ended up grinding some of the bracket the mount was attatched to, so we could wedge the mount in. It wasnt detrimental to the bracket but it just allowed us that tiny bit more room we needed to get the c*** in. Seriously after changing the mount we were both exhausted haha..

The car after the mount change did drive considerably better, with less moans and groans coming from the engine area. There are still some weird noises we are hearing but atleast we know the engine now is safely held in the engine bay for the time being and ready to take a belting from the supercharger.

We gave the car a bollocking and to our delight it didnt disappoint. Hopefully soon we will have some footage of the old girl in action letting some smoke out of the tires haha..

Here is a photo of the broken mount.. enjoy.

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Holy smokes!

Posted by superchargedcamira on August 17, 2008

Well today was quite productive today and left a massive grin from ear to ear on both of our faces.

Our first issue today was the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). It hadnt been giving us a reading in the ALDL diagnostics for quite some time so we decided to test our old dash to see if that still worked (seeing as we now had a new speedo cable). Long story short we ended up finding the connecting cable to the VSS was bung on the new tacho dash so we did a frankenstein and made a “good” dash from both clusters – keeping the tacho ofcourse.

The next problem was fine tuning our rom from last week. We decided to revise the workings of the Delco and do plenty of reading. Craig researched the spark advance and how we should tackle the boost section of the map. We basically copied the progression of the standard graph shape of other spark advance tables we looked at from off the internet – noteably from a V8 2 bar rom we had obtained in the past. The car seemed to be fine and wasnt noticably knocking. We revised the A/F ratio open loop table and richened up the boost section of the map to a healthy 12.8:1 or thereabouts as it was the open loop section (basically when you are giving it heaps haha) that we really wanted to make sure the car was having enough fuel and wasnt going to lean out. Our o2 sensor gave us the good news indicating a nice middle to rich reading under WOT. After giving the car heaps and it not blowing up on us, we were giggling like school girls! haha..

The car is noticably quick with the supercharger on. To give the readers some idea – as we havent been able to road dyno the car yet – we timed a rolling start in 2nd from around 1500rpm to 6000rpm and with the supercharger off obtained a time of 9.69 seconds. With the supercharger on doing the same test on the same strip we recorded 6.3 seconds.

Next problem we desperately need to fix is the rear engine mount. It still makes the car feel like its going to fall apart and really makes some interesting noises especially under acceleration with the supercharger on. We will need to attend to this problem and will obviously update the site on our attempt at doing so.. so until then… oh by the way, here is a photo of our home made oil catch can with breather. Hope i havent missed anything, im sure Craig will update with any more info if I have.

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Zoom Zoom Zoom..

Posted by superchargedcamira on August 10, 2008

Just a quick update on this weekends progress. More good things im happy to report.

On saturday i managed to finish off the work on the custom oil catch can. I picked up a small air filter and connector with a thread, then cut a thread into the top of the catch can to fit. The fitting could then be screwed straight in and the air filter (breather) attached easily to the top. While getting the air filter, i also picked up some more vaccum hose to replace the old split hose that went to the fuel pressure regulator. Apart from that also just cleaned up the outside of the catch can with the grinder and migwelder to make it look somewhat nice. Adam is going to give it a coat of POR15 to finish it off though.

Today we made an attempt at getting the speedo cable through the firewall and into the correct location. It was much easier with two of us. It also helped that we had better light and could see the hole it was supposed to be fed through. So now the speedo is working great, however the ECU is still not getting any speed sensor data, so we still need to figure out why. Whats also annoying is that the fuel gauge has also stopped working.

We went and bought some extra hosing for the oil catch can and connected it all up. Once that was done, we started it up and alas our oil problem was solved. Time to go for a drive we thought. We went out to our usual deserted location and proceeded to check everything was as expected before putting the foot down and seeing what it could do. We did a fair bit of running on boost and everything worked well. There was no oil leaks and the engine and intake temps were all normal. We found that at around the 40-50% throttle mark it pulled quite hard, however after that point the power delivery was not too smooth. It felt like the engine was leaning out. Considering we hadnt really mapped out our top end fuel delivery very well, we should have expected this would happen. So now we need to sit down and work out the proper air/fuel ratios for the above 1 bar part of the map. So the great news is, the car is working perfectly with the supercharger and all the latest mods, we just need to tune it better.

When we got back, we also played around with hooking up our little LED O2 and Map meters so we could have a visual display of both those sensors. Originally when we hooked it up we found it seemed to interfere with the ECU sometimes. This time we used a better earth directly on the chassis (rather than through the radio/casette jack) and just took power from the accessories pin of the jack. This seemed to work better and didnt appear to interfere with the MAP.

So basically, we just need to tune the ECU rom better for when were are over around 1bar of map. Then once we think we have that somewhat right, dyno time! I will post some pics later of the custom oil catch can once its been painted with the POR15.

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Its august already!

Posted by superchargedcamira on August 3, 2008

Hi all,

Its been a fairly busy in supercharged camira land this week. On wednesday night we took the camira to mikey, who is adams mechanic mate to have a look over for us. We left the supercharger off on the drive there and just took it easy so as to try and keep any potential oil leakage to a minimum. Mikey had a good look over the car and everything we had done, the general consensus was that it was all pretty much correct.

We went over the oil leak problem, and it turns out that the leak was actually coming from under the oil cap, not from the gasket. The crank case was becoming pressurised and the oil cap happened to be the easiest way out for the excess pressure, along with some oil for good measure. At first we thought that the one-way valve we had installed from the intake to the crank case ventilation was not working, or in the wrong way, but after a quick inspection we determined it was working perfectly. The excess pressure was coming from gases escaping past the piston rings and building up in the crank case until it had enough pressure to vent through the oil cap. The oil cap was a bit of a weak point, as the rubber seal had gone rock hard, and the POR15 that we had painted the rocker cover with had also been applied where the oil cap seals against the cover, giving it a smooth surface that the hard rubber couldnt seal properly againt. So the solution to this problem is to install an oil catch can with a breather so that any excess pressure can be vented, and any oil can be caught in the catch can… oh and a new oil cap 🙂

Another suggestion he made was to remove the T piece from the map sensor vaccum hose, the one that we installed the other week for the air bypass valve. Basically he felt that it may cause some interference with the map sensor, so thought we were better off moving it to T off the fuel pressure regulator instead. While we were there, we got him to remove the speedo cable from the gearbox case, something we had failed miserably to be able to do when we had tried previously on a number of occasions. It helps when you have the right tools 🙂 The cable had snapped at the end where the pin goes into the gearbox. Now we could get around to putting our new speedo cable in.

We mentioned the strange vibrations and shuddering that the car would sometimes do, and said we suspected a rear engine mount. He put the car up on the hoist and we were able to get a better look. Sure enough, the right rear (closest to the driver) engine mount was completely broken. The engine bracket which bolts onto the engine mount and also acts as a mount for the alternator was effectively grinding on another metal part of the chassis because there was no support from that engine mount at all. So we now know we need to change that mount, and it wont be easy as its quite difficult to get to. Another problem we have had is sourcing the right rear engine mounts.. in fact we have not found anyone yet who does stock them. Every car parts place seems to only have front left and right mounts, they dont even have listing for the rear ones. Apparently they dont normally break very easily. I contacted Anthony, who lives on the east coast and has supplied us numerous bits and pieces for our camira via ebay to find out if he had a mount. He said he did, but that we should just buy new ones. He said he was able to source them when he needed to a while ago and had provided a few options to chase up.

While the car was up on the hoist, we got him to also check the suspension, we he said seemed ok. This means that a new set of tyres and a wheel alignment should sort out our horrible steering angle. He gave the engine a good hard workout with the supercharger on. We noticed it would cut in and out a bit, but that was down to the fact that we hadnt wired up the clutch properly yet. We just had it hooked up with aligator clips shoved into the clutches electrical plug, and one end clipped onto a bolt on the thermostat housing. It did the trick for our simple test, however needs to be done properly asap.

We had a look for catch cans on the net, and they seemed to range from about $80+ for one with a breather. Even though that really isnt much, part of this project was to do things cheap cheap. So i decided to try and make one. On saturday i went to auto one and picked up the connectors we would need to be able to connect it into the crank case ventilation hose. I then headed to my folks place to hunt around for something suitable to use as the catch can. This also is where all the welding equipment is. I had recently gone halves with my dad in a plasma cutter, tig welder and arc welder combo, and he also had a mig welder, so we had everything we should need. After hunting around a bit, we found an old car jack that no longer worked, however the piston casing looked like a good size for our catch can. So we dismantled the jack and removed the casing.. perfect. We used the plasma cutter to cut out a top and bottom for the casing from the side wall of the jack. We drilled the holes for the inlet and outlets, and also for a oil level gauage. We welded it all up and hey presto, a cheap cheap catch can. We still need to find a filter to attach to the top as a breather, give the can a coat of paint we’re done.

Today i started fixing some of the issue we had found earlier in the week at mikeys. I moved the bypass vaccum hose from the MAP sensor hose to the fuel pressure regulator hose.. however the hose turned out to have a smaller internal diameter that expected, even though from the outside it looked like it would be exactly the same. Nothing a drill cant fix.. i drilled out a small section of rubber so that it could slide over the larger diameter T piece from the bypass, however the rubber hose must have been quite old as it starting to crack. We will have to get a replacement hose next time.

I also wired up the supercharger magnetic clutch properly. The original plug was no good to us, as we didnt have the other end that goes into it, so i cut the old plug off and soldered in a new plug. Using an old washer, i ground all the surface rust off it with the dremel so it was all shiny metal again, then drilled a small hole to thread part of the earth wire through. I then soldered the earth wire to the washer and looped it back to itself, then removed one of the bolts on the thermostat housing, put the washing it and tightened it back up. We now have a good solid earth connection, and a nice new plug for the supercharger.

The first thing i actually started with today was the new speedo cable. I greased up the pin and screwed it into the gearbox where the old one used to be. That part was easy. I fed the other end through the firewall and over to the dash. It was a pretty hit and miss process and just poking it through a hole until i found a bit it would go through, then trying to find the head on the other side. I managed to feed it through to behind the dash, however its just a tiny bit too short. I havent been able to get it to feed through correctly so that it will reach all the way to the dash. There must be a specific path through all the crap under the dash to come out in the right spot, but i havent been able to find it yet. Unfortuantely its not easy to get near where it roughly feeds in, as the steering column and pedals are in the way. I got fed up with it after a while and decided to leave it for another time. I should have paid more attention when i removed the old one to where it fed through.

Anyhow thats the progress from the last week, having the supercharger running has really motivated us to work one it more. The next thing to do will be to finish the custom catch can and breather assembly, mount it to the car.. somewhere and connect it up. We will make another attempt at the annoying speedo cable, and replace that vaccum hose on the fuel pressure regulator that is splitting. If we can get a hold of an engine mount by next time, we will also attempt to change it over.

Will post some more pics later once the catch can is finished.

Cheers

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and the weather was just perfect!..

Posted by superchargedcamira on July 27, 2008

Hey all,

Good news, yesterday was the day the camira had her first drive with the supercharger providing all the air to the intake! Its taken 2 years, but we’ve finally got there.. wohooo 🙂

Considering thats its been fairly miserable weather for the past week, and expect for the following week, saturdays weather was perfect for the camiras first real run, barely a cloud in the sky. When adam arrived saturday morning, our objective was purely tuning the 2 bar ROM a bit more, as the current rom was still having to do a bit too much fuel correction. Using KMAN(from the pulsar forum)’s very handy excel sheet for working out corrections, we applied the corrections we thought necessary, burnt a new ECU ROM and proceeded to go for a drive. Suprisingly the changes were pretty close to spot on, close enough that we didnt really feel the need to make anymore corrections.

Well that really didnt take too long, it was only just lunch time. So what next.. should we try and run the supercharger with the new rom.. why the hell not! So we ran over what we needed to finish off before we could do that. Firstly we needed a source for a vacuum hose to run to the bypass valve so that the engine can still get air when the supercharger is not running. Looking at our options, there was really only one good option, and that was to put a T in the vacuum hose that runs to the MAP sensor. So off to auto one we went again and picked up a length of 6mm vaccum hose and a copper T piece. We got back, split the MAP vacuum hose, inserted the T piece and ran a new hose to the bypass valve. We then took out the old airbox, and connected up the final piece of intercooler piping to the throttle body.

First we decided to test the air bypass valve, that was simply a matter of starting the engine with the supercharger switched off. To both our suprise it worked perfectly. Although the in theory it should have worked perfectly, we thought that there might have been some slight lag between the valve opening and the air being sucked through the bypass into the engine, resulting in a small noticable splutter by the engine, but there was no such issue. So far so good, everythings been going right so far. We turned on the supercharger and the engine continued to run fine, gave it a couple of revs, still good. It was time to take a test run.

Before that though, we decided that we really needed to extend the length of wiring to the supercharger on/off button we had made, so we could easily switch it on and off from within the car. We procured ourselves a nice length of wiring and proceeded to feed it through the firewall. We had to run one wire from the superchargers electro-magnetic clutch plug into the cabin, then another from the cabin to the positive terminal of the battery. Obviously the on/off switch would be connected between those two wires.

With that done, we jumped in the car, plugged in the laptop and checked the current figures from winaldl. Everything seemed good to go. We decided to leave the supercharger off until we got to our test area, and also to perform some testing of the bypass valve under driving conditions. We backed out of the driveway and cruised slowly down the street. It was then we noticed that the fuel was a bit low, so we headed to the nearest fuel station to throw a bit of premium in before we tested the supercharger. We then headed to our test area and pulled over. It was time. With a press of the big green button, the supercharger whirred into life. I put it in first, and slowly pulled away. Adam was monitoring the aldl output with the laptop to make sure everything was looking good. We started with a slow cruise around, approx 20% throttle at most. Everything seemed to be working well. Slowly we ramped up our throttle usage, at about 50% you could quite easily feel the difference in power as the engine pulled quite strongly. When the throttle was released there was a pleasant blowoff sound. 

Unfortunately after cruising around and slowly building up our acceleration tests, we started to smell oil. We quickly pulled over and popped the hood. There was a light oil smoke coming from in the engine bay, and a small amount of oil sprayed around under the bonnet. Hmm not good. It wasnt a major issue, and had almost been expected, but not quite to that extent. We switched the supercharger off and drove gently home.

The problem was an oil leak from the rocker cover. It was not a new leak due to the supercharger, however the leak was worse when using the supercharger. Ever since we POR 15’d the spare rocker cover (ie when we made it that shiny grey colour), and swapped it over with the old one (see post ‘Happy New Year’ from Jan 14th 2008), we’ve been getting a little bit of an oil leak from the front left corner. We’re not sure if its an issue with the gasket, (as we were lazy and tried to reuse the one that was already there as it was quite new), or perhaps the rocker cover itself is slightly warped. Also it doesnt help that one of the rocker cover bolt holes is threaded. So basically we need fix that problem, as its leaking a bit more oil than expected when the engine is working harder.

So overall it was a rather successful first test, only cut short by an existing problem which we should have taken the time to resolve earlier. So as of yesterday we now have a true supercharged camira!

The next steps will be to fix the oil leak, perform some more tests and do some new dyno runs.

Below are some photos of the engine, filter, bypass etc.

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